Shades of Gray: Living with Wolves
Reviled by ranchers and fawned over by conservationists, the gray wolf has cut a controversial wake in the American landscape ever since it was reintroduced from Canada in 1995. UK investigative journalist Jim Wickens journeys into the heart of the American wolf debate today. Read his full-length report here, which accopmanies the exclusive Earth Focus report of the same name, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolves, now online!
 
Photo by Jim Wickens
The elk carcass glints in the overhead sun, its ribs picked clean, poking out of a tangled mess that lies buried beneath the blood-stained snow. It is a wolf kill, a bloody spectacle that is playing out with growing regularity across the Rockies, and dividing Americans in its wake. 
 
We are on a Yellowstone park patrol crunching over fresh packed snow with Dr. Dan Stahler, a leading wildlife biologist and renowned wolf expert employed by the National Park Service, who has been following their introduction since 41 wolves were introduced into Yellowstone in 1995-6.
 
Wolf kill sites in Yellowstone are regularly analyzed, providing the park with data that is helping to decipher the ecosystem impacts caused by the reintroduction of a predator into the Rocky Mountain landscape. Clutching the jawbone of the fallen elk, Dan explains the role that wolves are having on the park ecosystem.
 
"To me wolves mean wildness and wild nature... I think that what we see here in Yellowstone with the presence of wolves now, is a leaner, meaner elk population... The elk out here in the landscape, there's fewer of them and there's less competition between the elk for resources such as good forage. And so I think we have a a healthier elk population now..."
 
Many in Montana, however, disagree. From an initial recovery plan of 300 individuals and ten breeding pairs across each state of the Rocky Mountain range, today over 1500 wolves call it their home, thanks to prohibitions on hunting and an ample supply of game and ranch animals to devour. 
 
The wolf reintroduction program is a conservationist success story, but one that has alienated many.  
 
Photo by Jim Wickens
Hunting under threat
 
Mike Mullinix is a prize-winning taxidermist based in Montana, and like many he is dependent on a healthy hunting industry for his income. We meet in the quiet of his workshop, a cornucopia of half-painted moose heads, trophy elk antlers, and a snarling bear that hangs off the wall.
 
"Hunting is a big part of our economy out here and it's gradually gotten bad. Well the intake I'm doing locally around here on my animals has probably dropped over fifty percent. Everyone has noticed the big drop. I think it's down almost seventy-five percent from what it was back in the eighties... and it doesn't take common sense to figure out what's happening here with the animals," he says.
 
Mike talks while he delicately paints the finishing touches to the side of a moose jaw.
 
"I am competing with them and they need to be regulated just like every other animal. It's gotten way out of control. Our wolf season should have started ten years ago... Everybody across the country's complaining about our wolf seasons out here, but we've got to live with what's happening, they don't."
 
In the archery range outside of the state capital Helena, I track down Joelle Silk, president of the Montana Bowhunters Association to put these questions to her.
 
A sharp intake of breath. The bow tightens. A momentary silence and then a whip-like crack as she lets slip a silicon-tipped arrow, hammering into a tree trunk 30 meters distant with a determined thud. Joelle eases her bow.
 
"Montana falls at the bottom of the median-income scale in the nation. So hunting is a very important way in which to put food on the table for many families. A good-sized elk can feed a family of four throughout the year, so it's very important... a very economical and simple way to feed the family," she says." Wolves have had an interesting impact to the prey and predator relationship in Montana. I hear ordinary people saying, "we used to have tons of elk on our doorstep to go and hunt. Now there are fewer. It's almost like there's a localized impact but statewide there may not have been much overall reduction in population."
 
Photo by Jim WickensIn 2011 wolves were finally delisted from the Endangered Species Act, quietly pushed through the halls of power in Washington by a democratic senator facing re-election in a marginal Montanan seat. "Wolves were definitely thrown under the bus for political reasons," says Mike Leahy from Defenders of Wildlife, a powerful conservation advocacy group that strongly opposes the delisting of wolves." I think the Obama administration responded to the politics of the situation. Never before had a Secretary of the Interior taken a step to undermine the Endangered Species Act like this... the democratic leadership in the Obama administration all went along with that. We were really disappointed in how the politics played out there."
 
Delisted and now fair game, 220 wolves in Montana alone can now be shot, trapped, or bow-hunted each year. 
 
For Joelle and many hunters like her in Montana however, the delisting of wolves is viewed positively. "People felt outside the management picture as long as they remained listed, and so that did create tension within Montana certainly... Since the hunts have started up, we've regained that sense of empowerment, self-sufficiency, involvement in the process... that's really important for us as a state that has the hunting traditions that we have," says Joelle.
 
Yellowstone wolves in the firing line
 
In recent months the wolf hunt has been dramatically thrust once again into the limelight, this time with the high-profile killing of a particular wolf that spent much of her life within the protected confines of Yellowstone Park. Known as 832F, the Lamar Valley pack alpha female was known to tourists the world over. "She was extraordinary... she was one of the best hunters we've ever seen... the American public and the whole world was drawn to her," says Dan Stahler, the biologist who painstakingly followed her radio-tracked movements for six years, before she was shot dead 15 miles outside of the park this winter.
 
Photo by Jim WickensThe loss of 832F was felt around the world, but also, surprisingly, in the midst of Montana itself. Nathan Varley and his wife, Linda, are a couple whose economic survival is intricately intertwined with that of the wolves. But unlike those in the elk hunting industry, Nathan and Linda need wolves alive. Growing up within the park community Nathan knows Yellowstone better than most, working first as a wolf biologist and then seven years ago setting up a wolf watching eco-tourism company, one of several to have sprouted up in the wake of growing national and international interest after wolves were reintroduced. Today Nathan and Linda take small groups of tourists on foot into the park, relying on expert knowledge and careful reading of conditions to guide paying members of the public to witness the spectacle of wolves in the wild. 
 
"We do look at the livelihood debate a little differently because we do feel like there is such a big economy based around the wolf. So it is not just the livestock producer's livelihood or the elk hunting outfitter's livelihood that we are talking about in this Western wolf debate. There are a lot of tourism livelihoods at stake here too."
 
Nathan quotes Montana University economist data which suggests that visitors who come to see wolves, are spending somewhere on the order of $35 million every year in the communities around Yellowstone.
 
"The main things people want to see are wolves... A lot of the big fans of Yellowstone wolves are following the lives of the actual individuals. They are the attraction. These become the stars of the show... and to have them hunted is even harder for our guests to understand... If that individual is important enough and so many people care about it, then it does have an influence on whether they want to come back to Yellowstone and it could influence their decision to visit the park in the future." he says. 
 
The iconic value of individual wolves versus the indiscriminate nature of the Rocky Mountain wolf hunt quota is a conundrum that Montanan authorities are yet to settle on. Fearful of a PR backlash at home and abroad, it has put outgoing Montana Governor Schweitzer in an awkward position.
 
"How do we run a hunt in Montana and Idaho and Wyoming and say to people 'well you have a license to shoot a wolf in order to control the population at a sustainable level... Then say to that same hunter, unless you see that pretty girl that often times lives in Lamar Valley and so many tourists love seeing her around, and she even has a name.' How's the hunter going to deal with that? It is called wildlife. These are not pets. Just because somebody recognizes one of these wolves does not make it a pet," he laments.
 
"I get thousands of emails per year castigating me as a terrible human being, because we allow hunting of wolves in Montana. Many of these emails are from Europe or Latin America or Asia. People who have never come to Montana and who will probably never come to Montana and what they need to understand it that there are only a few places on the planet that have made accommodations for wolves, and we are one of them. We are actually getting the job done," he says.
 
Trial by media
 
Carter Niemeyer is a veteran wildlife service trapper, wolf expert and best selling author, who played a central role in the early struggles around wolf reintroduction. We meet on a windy mountainside on the edges of the state capital Helena, to hear his expert views on how the wolf issue has become so divisive in recent years. 
 
"The media is definitely guilty of keeping it polarized, because killing wolves whether we are hunting them, trapping them, or removing a problem wolf periodically, it really shouldn't be news anymore. We don't announce every time someone shoots a coyote or someone kills a mountain lion or a bear. Wolves are not weapons of mass destruction."
 
As the government-sanctioned necropsy expert in the Rocky Mountains, for many years Carter's job was to inspect suspected wolf kills on livestock, so that ranchers could pocket compensation that they were entitled to if their animals had been lost to wolves. Using forensic tools and methods unused in the past, Carter made a startling discovery that has earned him few friends from the ranching community he knows so well. "In the early years maybe five out of every hundred livestock that I looked at were actually killed by wolves.
 
"Once the media started putting out the information that wolves were in the landscape, nearly all the reports coming in were assumed to be wolf damage and so the assumption was that wolves were causing a lot of problems... But there are many things that killed them besides wolves; you have disease and birthing problems and a multitude of things that kill livestock. I would say death loss by wolves on sheep and cattle, it is well under 1%, I think you are talking a quarter of 1% at the current kill rates that we are looking at... there has been a dislike in the whole concept of putting wolves back on the Rocky Mountain landscape, so part of the problem I think to having wolves back were that people anticipated and almost wanted them to be a problem."
 
To an outsider driving through the vast snowy uplands of Montana, the scale of this sparsely populated landscape drowns the senses. A state the size of France with just two million residents, Montana's enormity is in itself an obstacle to discussion, a barrier that restricts face-to-face communication around the wolf; further heightening the acute power of the mass media in determining the narrative around wolves.
 
Watched from afar through news columns and evening news bulletins, the complexity of the Rocky Mountain wolf debate seems to have been reduced to bite-sized chunks of polarized hysteria. Wolf haters vs Wolf lovers, 'crazies' the lot of them. But it is a position that frustrates many in Montana who belong to neither camp; individuals who are quietly seeking to build bridges within the entrenched battleground over the rightful place and number of Rocky Mountain wolves. 
 
Steve Primm is a biologist and predator consultant who works with ranchers who are keen to mitigate potential wolf problems with livestock. "Why aren't the middle ground voices heard? I think that's a good question... I think there's a lot of drama associated with the conflict... The stories we have to tell about trying to live with wolves is far more complicated than one about do not kill any wolves or kill all of the wolves. I think it comes down to us not having tidy sound bytes."
 
Rancher Becky Weed agrees. "It's incredibly frustrating because there really isn't any very good data on what the grass roots individual ranchers feel. All we read about in the newspapers is what the mouth pieces say to the media and I think it's a gross oversimplification of what's really happening out on the landscape," she says in her ranch outside Bozeman, talking as she busily spins out a roll of hay for her sheep from the back of a tractor.
 
An enormous dog sits close to Becky's feet; 'Max' a cross of several European breeds that she uses to protect her flock from predation. He is part of a new method of ranching that enables her to sell 'predator friendly' certified wool to markets at home and abroad. 
 
"He's unbelievable, he's our main tool... We also use pasture management strategies, we don't just let the sheep wander all love the place... so it's really a matter of vigilance and adaptability. If there's anything consistent in this whole carnivore game, it's that it changes from year to year... Wolves to me are really one part of a much larger package and I tend to feel somewhat allergic to this oohing and aahing over a single species... Wolf predation is not the biggest problem that ranching in Montana is facing right now."
 
The Blackfoot challenge
 
It's 4am and a siren on the coal train screams as it races by, a thundering percussion of endless carriages brimming with Montanan coal on a passage west to Pacific ports and then on to the power stations of China. Our home for the night is Drummond, 'population 338'. Across the road from the motel a ghostly specter of a giant longhorn skull lights up in passing headlamps; it is a used cow lot, last port of call for ranch animals sold for a steal, that await the butcher's knife. 
 
Ranching is everything here, modest family farms form a patchwork of fencing amidst the forests and mountain peaks that surround the town. And today 50 wolves have made their home around this 800,000 valley known as the Blackfoot, a mixture of Canadian, Idaho and Yellowstone-descended wolves thriving in these elk and livestock rich lands. But where the wolves go, so do the problems. The chuckling fondness with which a resident regales how a wolf was shot dead and strategically hanged under a stop sign on the highway here, speaks volumes about the recent history of wolf relations in these parts.
 
Photo by Jim WickensBut what makes this places special is the way in which ranchers have grouped together to learn to live with wolves. This is the Blackfoot challenge, a community-centered initiative using science, sound management and a healthy dose of common sense, to help ranchers co-exist as best they can with grizzles, and in recent years, with the wolf.  
 
Tracey Manly points wearily to the ditches on the edge of his ranch. "Most of the time they come right down these draws... they won't just come charging right in... they're going to wait until one kind of chooses itself by being behind the rest of the herd and that's the one they'll get. One will grab the top of the back and the other one will grab the throat... once they have it down, it's done pretty much," he says, describing the premature fate that has befallen many of his cattle over the last decade.
 
"You were helpless. Your hands were tied and there was a lot of shoot, shovel, and shut up type deals because you are talking about your livelihood," he says, describing the frustration felt by many ranchers at not being able to shoot problem wolves for so many years. 
 
There is little doubt that the steadfast refusal of both the Federal Government and great swathes of the conservation movement, to accept delisting for so many years -- the wolf reintroduction program reaches it's official target figure of 300 wolves over a decade earlier in 2002 - has pitched ranchers even more strongly against wolves and Washington; a prickly libertarian-flavored backlash that strikes a fertile chord in this heartland state.
 
Since the Blackfoot began to quietly offer innovative solutions to reduce livestock-wolf conflicts however, attitudes have dramatically changed for Tracey and his neighboring ranchers.
 
"It's definitely thawed," says Tracey. "Even if your just damn the wolf, and they make you mad or whatever... that doesn't get anything accomplished. Your still losing livestock, so why not try to build a corral or build an electric fence around your lots and see what works... just banging your head against the wall saying 'kill them all' isn't going to happen", he says, a markedly different tone to the situation several years ago.
 
Photo by Jim WickensJim Stoner, rancher and Blackfoot Challenge Founder, crouches down on the hill side, furiously hammering away at the frozen earth to anchor in another pole with which to suspend the fladdry he has just unrolled from the back of his RV; handkerchief-sized pieces of red fabric flapping off a single electronically charged wire. "If a neighboring ranch has a problem with wolves we can load this machine up and go down and we can deploy a mile or two of this product in short of an hour... you know it's a new product and people kind of look at it and go wow that's kind of crazy... but we've seen it work ourselves. We've seen wolves on one side of it and our cows on the other," he says grinning.
 
Fladdry systems are part of a wider package of measures that the Blackfoot ranchers have taken in close co-operation with government agencies, including range riders who track wolves to keep ranchers up to date and carcass removal schemes that remove the welcome mat for wolves from ranches before they even get there. 
 
Seth Wilson is a conservation biologist who helps to co-ordinate the Blackfoot Project. "By employing these non-lethal measures we have been able to keep livestock losses fairly minimized. From 2006-12 we have documented 14 confirmed losses. When we got to other valleys we have has as many as 20 livestock killed over a two year period by comparison, and many, many wolves removed; these are the sort of collisions between livestock production and wildlife that we want to avoid," he says. He cautions against quick-fix solutions however. "This stuff takes time, and community-based conservation, building trust, earning the respect of the livestock producing community in Montana, that takes time... we act as the forum for bringing people together who normally would not potentially even talk to one another... that is the key to our success, communication in these ways that are respectful."
 
Jim Stoner reflects upon his handiwork with the Fladdry, dozens of pieces of red fabric tied to the wire in an impromptu fence line and blowing in the breeze. "Really when it comes down to it, it's about people, about bringing communities together. Wolves," he ponders, "mean opportunity."
 
After a week on the road in Montana, meeting, listening and probing discussions around wolves with people from all walks of life, it's clear that the polarized hyperbole published so often in the media either for or against wolves, is a gross distortion of reality for those who live and labor on the ground in Montana. Whilst court cases continue to rage in Washington around the fate of the Gray wolf, it is perhaps the quiet and courageous voices from communities in Montana who need to be heard the most. If the black and white can finally be replaced by a shade of gray, Rocky Mountain people may just find a way to live in balance alongside wolves for generations to come.
 
Watch the Earth Focus report Shades of Gray: Living with Wolves:
 
 
 

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Stalking Stereotypes

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

A sharp intake of breath. The bow tightens. A momentary silence, and then a whip-like crack as a silicon-tipped arrow flies, hammering into a tree trunk 30 meters away with a determined thud. We are with the president of Helena Bow hunters, a proud organization of local people who hunt down elk, deer, mountain lions, and even bears with just a bow and arrow. Reviled by animal rights advocates, bow hunters are a fairly cautious lot. But after a lot of effort we managed to track down the president to ask about wolves.

 

As anyone who has ever lived abroad will attest to, the international media love to frame US hunters as a uniform bunch of tea-party, gun-toting, trophy-chasing elderly white men from Texas. Forgive the painfully simplistic stereotype, but I'm sure you get the point.

 

Photo by Jim WickensPredictably perhaps, I was in for a shock. In our naivety, we hadn't been expecting a woman, let alone a nurse in a beat-up old car, to be meeting us at the archery range on the outskirts of Helena. With a wide smile and a contagious fire in her eyes, Joelle Silk then spent the next two hours shooting down the stereotypes that cling to attitudes regarding hunting in the US. A deep knowledge of Montanan forest ecology, a passion for the outdoors and a distinct humbleness marked out Joelle from anything I was expecting to find. For the last 20 years she has immersed herself in traditional bow hunting, a past-time that requires the hunter to get within 30 yards of their quarry, requiring immense skill, patience and dedication. Joelle had got involved with hunting two decades ago when she worked for the national park service, seeing it as a way to feed herself with a limited income. And she was quick to explain that for many people in Montana who live on below average national income, the bagging of an elk or deer can keep a family fed for months. There are people out hunting for trophies, but for Joelle and indeed almost every interviewee we had met in Montana, the annual 'elk tag' fee that people buy over the counter enables people to eat a meat that is natural, hormone-free and a world-away from the factory-farm hell where the majority of meat and dairy on sale in American supermarkets comes from.

 

The problem is that wolves like elk too. A lot. Since wolves were introduced to Yellowstone the elk herd has dramatically reduced. It is, according to wolf advocates, a 'leaner but meaner elk herd' that we see today in Montana. But there is no doubt that the huge herd sizes have gone and that elk have dispersed around the state. Ordinary blue-collar folk in Montana are finding it harder to locate the elk, and so it is not surprising that they feel threatened by wolves, a species that is now competing with them for the cheapest, healthiest and arguably the most ethical source of meat in the state. Earlier on in the day I had spent time chatting with a middle-aged Montanan couple sat in the booth next to us in a diner. The lady said that when her kids were growing up, she wouldn't have known how they would have got by were it not for the free meat that wild-elk in the freezer provided.

 

However understandable these fears might be, fish and game authority figures do suggest otherwise: the elk herd in Montana is currently at or even above the desired size of 150,000 animals, and that is with a wolf pack in excess of 600 animals. But there does seem to be little doubt that wolves are dispersing elk, breaking them into smaller groups and dispersing them out of traditional grounds, basically making the chase just a little bit harder for would-be hunters and home providers.

 

Joelle doesn't seem too worried about this, but adds that her members are simply relieved that finally Montanans can begin to manage wolf numbers through a legalized wolf hunt, as they do any other species from ungulates through to bob cats or mountain lions.

 

As I have come to learn over this last week, for outsiders looking into this debate, the empowerment aspect of the Rocky mountain wolf hunts should not be underestimated. Numbers aside, and irrespective of the ethics of hunting carnivores such as wolves with traps, guns, or bows; paradoxically it seems to me that wolves may just stand a better chance of acceptance within Montana precisely because they can be legally hunted and killed.

 

Although she won't admit it on camera, I suspect that Joelle might be one of many secretly hoping that wolves remain in Montana for a long time to come.

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "An Unexpected Lurch to the Left."

 

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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An Unexpected Lurch to the Left

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

I had forgotten that the snowy bend we were approaching was, in fact, a sheet of black ice. Jet lag, long hours, and perhaps an innate anglo tendency to drive on the left, all played in the factors that led me to overlook this. What followed was a slow-motion skid -- I turned the wheel right, but our car had other ideas, sliding gracefully off the road and into a meter-deep ditch, clanging with the fencing as we hit. Cameraman Brian of course, as with all camera operators the world over, was more worried about his gear than any physical damage his own body might have sustained in a car crash. Instead of a warm shower and a hot dinner back in Helena, we were now face down at a 45 degree angle, in a ditch, in the dark, half way up a snowy mountain. It was going to be a long night.

 

Photo by Jim Wickens

Earlier that day we had met with a remarkable young rancher called Garl. 

 

Welcomed onto his ranch, we spent the afternoon with him plodding around a snowy field full of jet-black Angus cattle. As with many ranching operations in the Rockies, Garl rents huge swathes of upland pasture from the government, paying a peppercorn rent in order to let his cattle graze out the summer in the high plains and woods, before coming back down in the fall and being shipped off to feedlots. Several years ago though, Garl began to notice his counts were dropping and he suspected wolves were to blame.

 

But for Garl, wolf losses are part of a much bigger problem: what he sees as a predatory dominance of the packing industry by a small handful of companies who effectively dictate market access and cattle prices across Montana. It is a corporate grip that has squeezed his family's livelihood for generations. Garl began to think outside the box, changing the ranch into grassland beef operation and in recent years building a slaughter and processing plant on the farm. The family get more money from their value-added beef processing plant and the animals get an enormously better deal too living out their lives on grass, instead of the brutal journeys south to feedlot CAFOs that so many cattle in this state take every fall.

 

Photo by Jim WickensBut what does this mean for wolves? Situated 30 miles as the crow flies -- or rather as the wolf runs -- from Yellowstone, Garl knows that wolves aren't going to disappear anytime soon, so he has begun to develop an upland farming system that he thinks is better both for the wildlife and also for his cattle numbers. He now rotates the animals, keeping them in smaller areas at a time rather than simply turfing them out for months. The result this summer has been a marked decrease in unexplained stock deaths and it's not hard to see why, he says. The ranch hands can now keep an eye on the cattle better, and the herd itself has begun to behave as more of a pack, operating together to ward off predators in a markedly different way than they did when they were dispersed and isolated.

 

The system Garl is innovating promotes locally produced grass-fed meat, prevents over-grazing in the uplands and effectively allows for large carnivores to better co-exist alongside his animals. It's early days but the results so far seem to suggest that the fortunes of his livestock, of the wolves and indeed of his family pocket book, may all be turning around for the better.

 

Hours later, in the dark, in the ditch, and waiting for the pick-up truck to pull our damaged car back onto the road, I reflect upon what we have witnessed. A Rocky-mountain rancher who clearly recognizes that the impact of wolves on his livestock operation is but a small and diversionary part of a much wider and more profoundly urgent discussion regarding the economic disempowerment of livestock producers within the US by corporate agribusiness.

 

Garl is an insightful and compelling voice on this issue, but not one that the mainstream media would normally give space to, drowned out amidst the bombastic rhetoric that surrounds wolves on both sides. It is a hysteria that in my mind seems to be precluding a wider discussion about agriculture today: a debate where the predatory feeding habits of corporate agri-giants on family farms in America, finally get as much attention as that of the Yellowstone wolves.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Stalking Stereotypes."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "The Blackfoot Challenge."

 

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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The Blackfoot Challenge

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolves, now online!

 

Photo by Jim WickensWe're having coffee in the welcoming warmth of a rancher's home. Tracey, Sheila, and their two young sons sit with us, a friendly family of busy Rocky mountain ranchers who have made time to talk with us before rushing off to watch their son in a sports game. 

 

Ranching in Montana had no space for romanticism. Even their youngest son aged 10, tells me straight that he wishes the wolves weren't here. In years gone by, the family describe how the bumper sticker regarding wolves round these parts was typically a variation of the "3 S's" -- the "shoot, shovel, and shut up" philosophy, adopted by exasperated ranchers who had been driven to despair at not being able to protect their livestock with lethal control, even if wolves were worrying them.

 

They love the wildlife, Sheila explained, trying to convey the difficult position that ranchers have found themselves in over the last decade. Five years ago however, she said, even if she had accidentally killed a wolf, she wouldn't have wanted to mount the animal in her living room, but rather run it over again and again, such was the level of frustration. It's not hard to understand why. The ability to protect one's livestock is a basic right of self-defence for ranchers the world over. And as we are hearing on this journey, the federal interference that for so many years prevented ranchers from shooting wolves in order to protect their herds effectively disempowered them, which in turn seems to have bred a deeper resentment of the federal government, and of the wolf.

 

Photo by Jim WickensRemarkably however, the Blackfoot Challenge is quietly changing all of that. It consists of a group of people who have come together to find ways to live with wolves. "They are here to stay, so you can either get mad or do something about it," says Jim Stoner, a joke-cracking, sparkly-eyed rancher and a pivotal figure behind the Blackfoot challenge. Jim oozes enthusiasm while he demonstrates one of the ways that they are reducing livestock deaths in the valley. It's called fladry, an odd word for a simple idea: long reams of electric wire with bits of red tape. They don't know exactly why it works, but it does -- the wolves don't cross the lines, he tells us, and vulnerable livestock are protected as a result. 

 

Locked onto the back of his quad bike, his mobile fladry machine serves as the equivalent of a rapid response unit in the valley. When wolves are getting close to livestock, the Challenge folk are quick to roll out reams of this flapping electrically charged wire, quickly sending hungry and opportunistic wolves scurrying back into the woods. The wire is part of a bigger picture: a complex tapestry interweaving science and stewardship that covers everything from GPS tracking and range riders who follow the wolves in the valley, giving weekly movement reports to farmers, through to better stock fencing and carcass removal from fields.

 

Predicting the behavior of an animal as wily as the wolf is not easy. It's a complex unpredictable interface says Seth, but it's not rocket science, and most importantly, it seems to be working. Since 2008 in an area of 800,000 acres only 3.2 livestock have been confirmed to be killed by wolves each year, an astonishing statistic for such a wide valley with 10 packs of wolves living within it. These results are at odds with the kind of car crash figures for wolf and livestock deaths reported in neighboring valleys. Seth is keen to point out that trust and humility in his work within the Blackfoot Valley is the most important factor of all here, as he works to bridge a long-established and historically bitter divide between government scientists and land owners.

 

Elsewhere on this trip we have found deep-seated resentment of the federal government and 'their' wolf introduction program. What I found so remarkable about the Blackfoot today however, is that in the midst of this supposedly state-wide hostility, hundreds of farmers are managing to live alongside dozens of wolves relatively peacefully. But that's not all, as Jim explains smiling. What has happened is that in the face of adversity from wolves and grizzlies, the community has actually come together much closer than they were beforehand. "Wolves," says Jim, "are an opportunity."

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "An Unexpected Lurch to the Left."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Coal Smoke and Cattle Sales."

  

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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Coal Smoke and Cattle Sales

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

It's 4am and the siren on a coal train screams as it races by, a thundering percussion of endless carriages brimming with Montanan coal on a passage west to Pacific ports and then on to the power stations of China. But that's for another story... Our home for the night is the Wagon wheel cafe, a folksy diner-motel straight out of a movie, situated by the rail tracks in Drummond, 'population 338,' as the sign above the cafe counter proudly points out.

 

Photo by Jim WickensAs if to complete the picture, across the road a ghostly specter of a giant Texas longhorn skull lights up by passing car headlights next to a chalked-up figure displaying the price paid for horses and cows that are no longer useful. It is a 'used cow lot,' a last port of call for ranch animals sold for a steal now awaiting the butcher's knife.

 

Ranching is everything here -- modest family farms form a patchwork of fencing amid the forests and mountain peaks that surround the town. And today 50 wolves have made their home around this 800,000-acre valley known as the Blackfoot, a mix of Canadian, Idaho, and Yellowstone-descended wolves thriving in these elk and livestock-rich lands. But where the wolves go, so do the problems, and here, as with elsewhere in the Rockies, livestock losses have not exactly endeared them to local people; the chuckling fondness with which a resident regales the story of how a wolf was shot dead and strategically-hanged under a stop sign on the main road speaks volumes about wolf relations in these parts.

 

People here never wanted wolf reintroduction. Nothing new here then. But what makes this place special, and the reason we have travelled way out here to Drummond, is the way in which ranchers have grouped together to learn to live with wolves. This is the Blackfoot Challenge, a community-centered initiative using science, sound management, experimentation and a healthy dose of common sense to help ranchers co-exist as best they can with grizzlies, and in recent years, with the wolf.

 

Photo by Jim WickensThe Blackfoot Challenge has no axe to grind, and thus normally shuns the media, fearful of being tarnished with the divisive black or white 'brush' of the pro- and anti-camp that forever dogs this wolf debate. But after careful planning we managed to get access. Seth Wilson is our guide, an easy-going and instantly likeable conservation biologist helping to drive the project. Meeting at dawn he has agreed to drive us out to a ranch that has been at the center of this innovative and groundbreaking project.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "The Blackfoot Challenge."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "A Taxidermist Talks."

 

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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A Taxidermist Talks

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

Photo by Jim WickensWe drew up alongside a grey, drab building, unremarkable but for a little side entrance that opened up into a cornucopia of semi-plastered elk heads, racks of moose antlers, mountain lion casts, and a grizzly bear snarling from a perch near the ceiling. We were in the workshop of a taxidermist -- part and parcel of the big game hunting that Montana is famed for. And Mike, the owner of the business, had nervously agreed to talk to us. First we had to agree to be recorded ourselves, then copies of our passports were taken. Visibly shaken by the presence of a journalist, Mike told us that his attorney had said he shouldn't talk to us at all. Mike feels under threat, and particularly so from the media. Wisely fearful of misrepresentation perhaps, he wouldn't be the first to be misquoted for the sake of a tidy headline in this wolf debate over the years.

 

Scared to talk, and deeply defensive, armed with his own dictaphone whirring away in his breast pocket to record us as we recorded him, Mike eventually plucked up the courage to be interviewed. Standing awkwardly next to a trophy moose head, he described the intricate way in which taxidermist incomes depend upon there being enough trophy game animals to hunt. He had moved from the east coast to start a business here, winning national prizes along the way. But today his business stands depleted, dropping by 30% in recent years, and he said, it is mostly down to that four-legged animal again: the wolf. Hunters across Montana are up in arms about the damage that wolves are doing to elk populations. The big sky country of Montana was once famed for an elk migration numbering countless thousands. But today Mike told us, the numbers are seriously down, making the hunting of trophies -- and in turn the demand to mount them -- a much rarer thing that it used to be.

 

He's not against wolves he said, but he despairs at the current situation and says that they just need to be managed like every other animal in the state, echoing a common complaint from elk-hunting enthusiasts we met in cafes and diners on our way across the state. In a clever little bit of entrepreneurial marketing, Mike is currently offering a prize for the biggest wolf trophy photo he receives this winter, and he already has four wolves at the tannery, beginning their pain-staking journey of rebirth from bloodied pelt to mounted specimen. Unlike attitudes towards other game species such as elk or bear however, he said the opinion of his clients towards hunting wolves is very different indeed. Wolves are not being hunted in the state so much out of admiration or a competitive desire to add a prize wolf mount to one's big game collection, but rather out of a fundamental wish to simply reduce the number of them.

 

Photo by Jim WickensWhile we talked, a friendly young man walked through the door brandishing a plastic bag tied into knots, a bloody bobcat carcass lay within, freshly trapped on a ranch and ready for a taxidermic transformation. It's not to everyone's taste, taxidermy remains a niche and squeamish business to the outsider, but it's an industry that is remarkably important in a heartland state like Montana. I got the sense that taxidermy is a bit of a weather-gauge through which the economical vibrancy of the hunting industry can be assessed. And based on the sad, defensive, and defiant interview we carried out today, wolves, it seems, have a lot to answer for.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Coal Smoke and Cattle Sales."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "A Walk on the Wild Side."

 

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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A Walk on the Wild Side

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

Tears began well up in the corner of his eyes, but I wasn't sure if it was because of the icy wind blowing in from the mountaintops around us, or the questions that I was putting to him. We were speaking with Nathan Varley and his wife Linda, a couple whose economic survival is intricately intertwined with that of the wolves. But unlike the ranchers or the elk hunters, they need the wolves alive.

 

Photo by Jim WickensGrowing up within the Park community Nathan knows Yellowstone better than most, working first as a wolf biologist and then seven years ago setting up a wolf watching eco-tourism company, one of several to have sprouted up in the wake of growing national and international interest after wolves were reintroduced to Yellowstone. Today Nathan and Linda take small groups of tourists on foot into the Park, relying on expert knowledge and careful reading of conditions to guide paying members of the public to witness the spectacle of wolves in the wild.

 

For Nathan, the shooting of wolf number 832F, a famous Lamar Valley alpha female pack leader, potentially hurts him in his pocket book. He told us how he has been fielding dozens of calls from shocked and devastated clients, some of whom he said, return every year simply to see 832F or other favorite wolf individuals: iconic animals that now face the firing line should they stray outside of the park.

 

Native to the region, Nathan stands in a difficult position and he is careful to avoid criticizing his fellow Montanans, preferring to quote University of Montana research, which suggests that as much as $34 million may be generated every year in and around Yellowstone because of wolves alone. According to Nathan this kind of research demonstrates what he already knows: that wolf tourists come all year round to the Park and that they stay longer; which means they buy more food, and rent more rooms. Compelling financial facts that highlight another competing angle in this complex discussion around the fate of the Rocky Mountain wolves.

 

Nathan knows that among hard-talking outdoor pragmatists in Montana, it is the language of economics, not emotion, that stands the best chance of winning better support for wolf acceptance in the areas around Yellowstone. With this in mind, it seems that he is careful to avoid showing too many feelings on camera, but nonetheless his soft-spoken words and pregnant pauses seemed to say it all. The pain felt by them over the loss of the 'Yellowstone' wolves to a hunter's bullet is all too evident. But Nathan and Linda carry on, their fates intertwined with the future of the wolves under threat.

 

Photo by Jim WickensDriving away from Yellowstone, I get the chance to digest some of the facts and the voices that we have heard around this debate so far. Whether you love wolves or not, I can't help but get the sense that the ambitious scale of the quotas to trap and shoot wolves in the Rockies can be partly understood as a kind of blood-letting backlash, 16 years of pent-up resentment at the reintroduction of wolves, released at last. Just 20% of Yellowstone's 70 odd wolves are radio collared, but five of the seven wolves shot this year from the park were wearing radio collars. Though radio hunting is banned and frequencies are scrambled, statistically these figures do seem to suggest some kind of targeting.

 

F-you to the Feds. It seems Montana and Wyoming are quietly getting their own back on Washington's wolves, whether Nathan, Linda, or the cash-generating tourists they work with, like it or not.

 

The wild, it seems, is an unforgiving place.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "A Taxidermist Talks."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Celebrity Killing: Yellowstone Wolves in the Firing Line."

 

Journalist Jim Wickens

Jim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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Celebrity Killing: Yellowstone Wolves in the Firing Line

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 

The Serengeti of the USA they call this place, and it's not hard to see why -- two million acres of unadulterated wildness. A nature lover's dream with rocks dating back 55 million years. A place where elk, bison, and, in recent years, 80 wolves run free.

 

But driPhoto by Jim Wickensving into the park you do also get a sense of a regulated grip on this 'wild' place. We had come to visit one of Yellowstone's leading wolf scientists, but first we had to get the permits. A brief meeting followed in the park headquarters, where we were talked through a list of do's, and a seemingly endless list of don'ts, for film crews who wish to visit the park. We had to sign an agreement not to consume alcohol, or even engage in nudity whilst shooting in Yellowstone. Snowflakes were falling outside the park office while this surreal meeting took place, and with the temperature way below freezing, the idea that a film crew might suddenly be inclined to strip off and engage in a booze-fuelled orgy bordered on farce. I couldn't help but wonder what antics other film crews must have gotten up to in the past for it to come to this?

 

But it wasn't all bad, Dr. Dan Stahler being the case in point. A mild-mannered and self-effacing guy, he swept us away from the alcohol and nudity prevention form-filling of the park office, driving us far into the frozen wastes of the Yellowstone wild. 

 

For Dan, 'wolves mean wilderness,' and he talked with a contagious enthusiasm about the complex interplay of ecosystem management and predator studies. Dan comes across as a scientist with the rarest of talents -- the ability to combine sound science with succinct sound bites.

 

Photo by Jim Wickens

Standing over the freshly killed carcass of an elk, Dan was also a lot happier than I thought he would be. In recent months he has lost two of his radio collared wolves -- a leading alpha female and male from the same pack. Animals he had studied since 2006 when the female was born. Feted by park visitors for her hunting ability and leadership skills, the alpha female was shot recently by a hunter on the edge of Yellowstone, exercising his or her legal right to hunt wolves with a wolf tag. In our interview Dan appeared, to be surprisingly un-phased by the controversial wolf hunt, vying perhaps for the longer term aim of community bridge-building within the Eastern Rockies, rather than simply crying foul over the sudden death of a star wolf.


While the world rages over the taking of so-called Yellowstone wolves by state-sanctioned hunters, it seems the man who works closest with the animals is remaining cautiously distant. He didn't say as much, but it is clear that biology and PR at Yellowstone go hand in hand; one of the few places perhaps where scientists have to nurture community relations, even when it means their own research suffers as a result.

 

It seems that when you work with wolves in Yellowstone, pragmatism beats polarization hands down.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "A Walk on the Wild Side."

 

Read the previous installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Shades of Gray: Shedding New Light on the Rocky Mountain Wolf Wars." 

 

Journalist Jim WickensJim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.

 
 

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Shades of Gray: Shedding New Light on the Rocky Mountain Wolf Wars

Wolves were once federally protected but now can be hunted again, making the fate and future of the wolf more controversial than ever. UK journalist Jim Wickens reports from Wyoming and Montana to provide his unique insight into the wolf wars of the West. His blog accompanies the exclusive Earth Focus report, Shades of Gray: Living with Wolvesnow online!

 
Photo by Jim Wickens

A foot of snow and a frosted dawn greets us on our first day in Montana. We are in Big Sky Country, a state with big wolf problems to match. 

 

Nowhere else, perhaps, is there such a publicized animosity between carnivores and the people that live alongside them, or at least that's what the mainstream media would have us believe.

 

Following the de-listing of wolves from the Endangered Species Act in 2011, the battle over the place of wolves in America has once again erupted. It's a political act that has generated outrage from wolf advocates, but has been greeted with opportunistic glee by frustrated ranchers, keen to dust down their wolf traps and legally line-up the critters in the crosshairs of their hunting rifles.

 

Billed as wolf lovers vs. wolf haters, hysterical rants and explosive sound-bytes from both sides of the debate have been feeding frenzied news headlines around the world since wolves were reintroduced into Yellowstone 16 years ago. Now a decade-long battle looks set to ignite into an all out war. Or does it? 

 

Where do the truths really lie in this debate, and where are the voices of ordinary people on the ground in the heated discussions that revolve around human-wolf interactions, voices all too often ignored in the mainstream media?


Wolf ReleaseLink TV and Britain's Ecologist Film Unit have teamed up to journey into this complex and polarized debate. While the battle rages in media headlines and Washington lawsuits, we are off to meet the people who quietly live and labor alongside wolves in Montana today. Our journey will take us from the sweeping vistas of wintery Yellowstone and its scientists, through to the chemical confines of taxidermist workshops, meeting welcoming ranchers, outraged diners at cafes on the roadside, constructive conservationists and cautious bow-hunters, even an outspoken departing governor.

 

We want to gauge the views of people from all backgrounds, to explore the nature of wolves and the wild; the unspoken shades of gray. Complex middle grounds of hard truths, bitter pills and innovative solutions, voices of integrity that may yet offer a glimmer of hope for America's demonized wolves, and for the people struggling to live with them.

 

Read the next installment of Jim's wolf blog, "Celebrity Killing: Yellowstone Wolves in the Firing Line." 

 

Journalist Jim WickensJim Wickens is one of Britain's leading investigative journalists and the co-founder of both the Ecologist Film Unit and also Ecostorm, the environmental media agency. Jim has spend the last decade documenting unreported issues around the world, including exposing illicit whale-meat smuggling networks in Japan, filming the brutal Namibian seal hunt, documenting soya-related murders and poisoning in Argentina, breaking the story of fracking problems in the US, and filming illegal trawlers far out to sea on the Burmese border.
 
 

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Youth Voter Apathy Threatening 'Breakdown' in Japanese Democracy

 
 

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